Tuesday, April 11, 2006

WHW - Day 3: Kinlochleven to Kingshouse (8 miles)

We woke next day feeling surprisingly good and got ourselves and our kit together. Another guest at the hotel stopped me near the shower block to ask how we were feeling as he had seen the state of us when we walked in the night before! We scoffed a massive breakfast of porridge, toast and jam followed by a full Scottish before setting off through the village to continue our journey.

The Way was going to take us uphill all morning to its highest point, the big hill known as the Devil's Staircase and feared by all who haven’t walked it before. In truth it isn't too bad a hike and we were very quickly at the top for the obligatory summit photos. The views across to Buachaille Etive Mor and down Glen Coe were stunning but we moved on pretty quickly as the pass was covered in snow and the wind and rain had moved in. This rain kept up all afternoon as we descended to Kingshouse, where we had originally planned to camp at the official wild campsite beside the inn.

I had already decided to try and treat Kathleen to a room in the Kingshouse Hotel that night to make up for yesterday's hard day and once I seen the wet and boggy campsite I decided that I too could do with a treat. I managed to get the last room in the place and we gratefully dragged our wet bags and bodies upstairs. After a fantastic hot bath and a change of clothes we went down for dinner and beer. We were still walking strangely and my hips, knees and feet were feeling the strain, so every trip to the bar was painful. Before too long we headed upstairs to bed. This was really different from the last time I was drinking at the Kingy – that time I ended up trying to swim in 3 inches of river and got my bum midge-bitten to hell.

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